Tourists, post-quake Nepal needs you

BACK TO NORMAL: At Patan Durbar Square in Kathmandu, shops are open. But here in Nepal, there is a dearth of tourists, with related businesses being hard hit.


    Jul 15, 2015

    Tourists, post-quake Nepal needs you

    WHEN earthquakes hit Nepal in April and May, photos of death and devastation shared widely on social media led to a global outpouring of aid and support.

    At a donors' meeting in Kathmandu last month, US$4.4 billion (S$6 billion) was pledged from nations for recovery and reconstruction, half from grants and the other half in the form of a loan.

    I run a relief organisation, and spent a month in Nepal last month. At the Kathmandu airport, I was greeted by pallets of aid lying around, reminding me of the earthquake in Haiti in 2010.

    I braced myself for scenes of devastation. But I was shocked at what I saw once I left the airport. Buses were running, and restaurants and hotels were open.

    "It's slightly over a month since the first earthquake and everything has returned to normal?" I asked and received a few nods.

    My first destination was Patan Durbar Square, a Unesco World Heritage Site. From the videos seen online, I feared the worst. Buildings were damaged and at least 12 people had died.

    But the site had been cleaned up. Many structures were still standing. Where a structure was damaged, it was hard to tell if it was caused by the quake or just weathered by age.

    Shops around the square were open for business. Visitors could have tea in a nice cafe overlooking the square. Life looked like it had returned to normal.

    In Kathmandu, there is much progress in the certifying of safe, hospitable buildings. Unsafe buildings are sealed and many are being torn down. Almost 95 per cent of the businesses in Kathmandu are back to normal. Many business owners with destroyed buildings are selling in the streets.

    Businesses catering to locals say things are back to normal.

    Not so for those catering to tourists, such as taxi drivers, restaurant and hotel owners, as well as business owners in Thamel, a popular tourist district. For them, business is abysmal.

    Said an official, Shambhu Pathak, from the Tourist Association in Kathmandu: "Nearly all the businesses that cater to tourists have restarted in the hope of earning money to rebuild. However, the negative news coverage that has been repeated since the earthquake is keeping tourists away.

    "Now, most of the tourist businesses are losing money and they have already reduced the number of staff they hire. Tourist traffic is 15 per cent less than normal, and even when hotels reduced their prices to attract visitors, they still (didn't return)."

    In fact, the safari and state parks are not affected by the earthquake. Out of hundreds of trekking trails, only one near the Everest base camp is closed due to the avalanche.

    Among the Unesco world heritage sites, Patan Durbar Square was slightly damaged but still open. The Bhumsen Tower in Dharahara was the only one that was destroyed.

    The wildlife reserve, mountain ranges and other popular tourist destinations like Pokhara were unaffected by the twin quakes.

    One business owner in Kathmandu commented: "The earthquake did some damage to my store which I promptly fixed to restart my business so I could earn an income for me to fix my home and my village. However, the lack of tourists is making business hard."

    Information from a meeting at the Prime Minister's Office revealed that 14 districts were badly affected by the earthquake. But none of them were tourist destinations.

    In Pokhara, there was no damage to the caves, hotels, lakes and temples. The view of Annapurna was spectacular. When I spoke to hotel and restaurant owners, many said the disaster did not cause any physical damage, but the lack of tourists in the region is now causing economic disaster.

    The owner of Hotel Dharma Inn in Pokhara said: "We usually have 50 per cent occupancy during off-peak season, but after the earthquake, we will be lucky to have more than one guest at any time in our 50-room establishment. The tourists have vanished and even at crowded areas in popular tourist spots to view Annapurna, you can hardly find anyone."

    There is a great disconnect in the way information travels. Death and devastation are newsworthy and bad news travels fast. International donors generously responded with a lot of money for reconstruction, and rebuilding is on the way.

    But slow, steady recovery does not make for attention-grabbing headlines, and so we do not read about it. But it is on the steady road to recovery that Nepal most needs us now, to be its visitors, its supporters, its tourists.

    Showing solidarity by visiting Nepal now is a win-win situation as you get a cheap holiday in a beautiful country, giving business owners and employees the much-needed money to rebuild.

    My flight to Nepal cost less than $500 and guesthouse rooms with twin beds were less than $15 a day. Food was very affordable. In my three weeks in Nepal, I felt only one three-second-long aftershock.

    Supporting local businesses in Nepal allows the owners and employees to earn a living to send money back to the communities that were damaged. Instead of donations, consider visiting Nepal to experience its beautiful nature and culture.


    The writer is co-founder of relief organisations Relief 2.0 and Civil Innovation Lab. This article first appeared in The Straits Times yesterday.