Home-grown designers targeting kids

THE 'GEORGE EFFECT': He is not even a year old, but Britain's Prince George is already a fashion icon. Outfits he has been pictured in often sell out.


    May 19, 2014

    Home-grown designers targeting kids

    FIRST came the Kate effect. Now, everything that the newly crowned trendsetter Prince George wears is flying off the shelves. Babies these days have got swag, and don't entrepreneurs here know it.

    "Fashion is no longer exclusively adults' play. Increasingly, we are seeing the advent of pint-sized style icons sporting stylish outfits that are surprisingly grown up," says Mark Lee, chairman of home-grown fashion trade show Blueprint, which has just introduced a childrenswear offshoot.

    "A new spotlight has been cast upon the wardrobes of celebrity kids such as Aila Wang, Alonso Mateo, Suri Cruise and the Beckhams."

    Rather than crack the luxury childrenswear market, dominated by miniature lines from grown-up fashion houses, home-grown fashion upstarts are capitalising on trendy looks that would make junior a street-style star, without the price tags of grown-up duds.

    "Asia has the highest population growth rates, yet there are few exceptional Asian childrenswear brands," observes Dylan Ong, who left his investment adviser position in Hong Kong to launch Le Petit Society with his wife Robyn Liang, a former fixed-income trader.

    "We import many well known kids' labels from outside of Asia, but these are usually expensive and yet produced here in Asia. We wanted to create stylish, comfortable and affordable kids' clothing that is designed and produced in Asia."

    As much as style-savvy parents covet a shearling jacket priced upwards of $1,000 from Burberry, most "Singaporean shoppers are mindful when it comes to purchasing kids' fashion, with many who let their children wear hand-me-downs as they would outgrow their clothes quickly", said Andrene Chan, whose handmade pieces under the label BabyPixie don't go for more than $50.

    One home-grown brand that will be launched next month focuses not just on reasonable price points, but "sartorial streetwear" that hipster mums from Woodlands to Williamsburg would appreciate.

    Cavalier, founded by husband-and-wife duo Perry Lam and Angela Chong, features looks like the D-Shirt, a hooded T-shirt designed to be worn pulled over the head, just the way kids would anyway. Prices start from $40 for a knotted onesie to $150 for fully-lined formal wear.

    "Cavalier is more stylish than cute, more edgy than pretty, and definitely more 'hype beast' than princess," says Ms Chong, who used to run a media production house with Mr Lam.

    "I'm averse to confining ourselves to a particular aesthetic as I like to have the room to evolve, so it might be easier to tell you that we are not about 'cute' in the conventional sense and you won't find popular cartoon characters on our apparel in the foreseeable future."

    To stand out from the plethora of childrenswear available, home-grown designers realise the importance of carving out a brand identity. As much as Cavalier is created for the pint-sized city dweller, another new label, Chubby Chubby, is based on lightweight resort-inspired linen sun dresses and separates, priced between $30 and $60.

    "Comfort is, and always will be, the big trend in childrenswear," says the brand's founder, Nix Deng, who evolved her customisable children's gifts business to include a capsule collection of apparel.

    "I aim to create the sublime feeling that parents get when they see their children in clothing that accentuates their delightful naivete. This feeling far supersedes the practicality of purchasing mere affordable and mass-produced clothing for their young ones."

    Instead of succumbing to the fast fashion model adopted by makers of grown-up clothing, most kids' fashion designers focus on quality and comfort.

    Be*U, for example, is a bespoke children's shoe brand from Taiwan, recently made available here in Singapore. Not only can tykes choose from over 600 designs and skins like crocodile, ostrich, kangaroo and horse hide, but they are supposedly able to pad around with greater ease thanks to the craftsmanship of each shoe. A patented outsole design absorbs shock and offers flexibility, and over 10 hours are spent creating the shoes to ensure maximum quality.

    "We noticed that bespoke services were easily available for parents, for example, at Hermes, but there wasn't any of that for kids," says the sole distributor for Be*U, Julia Liao, who prices the shoes from $158. Exotic-skinned designs could cost up to $1,500.

    "A pair of shoes is more frequently worn than apparel, like a T-shirt, for example. Also, these shoes are tailored to improve a child's foot development, which will be important in their lifetime."

    This demand for bespoke fashion has even prompted Singapore-born, Hong Kong-based entrepreneur Kit Lee to hold workshops for children's shoe-making. Participants learn to craft infant shoes from cashmere-soft lamb or goat skin from Europe or Brazil, and use organic, non-dyed cotton canvas for support.

    "A lot of times, baby shoes by fashion brands are very stiff for display purposes on the racks," explains Ms Lee. "Such shoes cut into baby's delicate skin and are dangerous too, as children's feet should not be clad in shoes that restrict their growth."

    While retailers seem to be diving into the baby bracket, creating a lucrative juniors' line is anything but child's play.

    "There are additional points of consideration when designing for kids - from basic factors like diaper allowance to understanding the stages of growth," says Ms Chong.

    "But it was quite natural for us to seek out a new challenge and chase a dream. Our debut collection is sparked by the thrill of kids playing dress-up in their parents' closets and the vision to clothe little sartorial people."